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Foiling broken painted glass
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 Posted: Tue Apr 15th, 2014 12:02 am
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AGG Member

Joined: Wed May 22nd, 2013
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan USA
Posts: 12

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Many of us are using copper foil to repair broken glass. When I trim my foil for eye level, interior work sometimes I will cut it flush with the surface of the glass (adhered to the edge only rather than the face) which produces the best looking and least noticeable repair. This method does not accept very much solder and relies heavily on the adhesive to keep the shards from dislodging. On exterior work I still trim it back but leave just enough to "catch" the entire edge and a sliver of the surface, hopefully keeping things in place. Anyone care to share their strategies/experiences good or bad for such repairs?

 Posted: Tue Apr 15th, 2014 12:24 am
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Mary Clerkin Higgins

Joined: Mon Oct 30th, 2006
Location: New York, New York USA
Posts: 499

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At Greenland Studio we used to cut back to the edge and solder a thin wire onto the front, giving an even front surface that would also help hold the glass in place.

 Posted: Tue Apr 15th, 2014 02:53 am
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Non AGG Member

Joined: Tue Nov 19th, 2013
Location: Monches
Posts: 35

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I do the same, clean the edges really well for max adhesion and cut back to make a minimal line. Depending on the crack I like to believe the window when all together acts as a complete unit and there is usually not such a pressure to make it fail.

But... I am a big fan of glueing pieces instead using hextal. Over the last few years this has been the way forward for me!

 Posted: Tue Apr 15th, 2014 12:45 pm
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Joined: Tue Sep 12th, 2006
Location: Needham, Massachusetts USA
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Copper foil repair is definitely my first choice for repairing cracked glass, whenever possible and/or applicable.
The way I like to repair cracks with foil is: Cover about 1/16" or less of one side of the cracked glass, (let's say the interior surface for discussion sake). Then turn the piece over and completely trim the excess foil flush.
I then take the "abutting" piece and do the opposite: cover the exterior of the piece with about 1/16" or less of foil, then turn the piece over and completely trim the excess foil flush. It gives a once narrow, clean repair line, while retaining some strength. As Mary said, sometimes I also solder a thin piece of wire on the front of the piece.

Serpentino Studio

 Posted: Mon Apr 21st, 2014 11:03 pm
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Don Burt

Joined: Tue Dec 12th, 2006
Location: Wyoming, Ohio USA
Posts: 213

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I'm not getting it Roberto. When I visualize what you've stated, it looks like a normal copper foil line in width, but some of the strength cut away. I've attached a diagram, with sides and pieces labeled/named. What am I missing? Thanks for your patience..

Attachment: foil_repair.pdf (Downloaded 202 times)

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