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Flattening bowed panels
 Moderated by: Baldoni, artfem  
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Adam
AGG member


Joined: Sat Sep 16th, 2006
Location: Ridgetown, Ontario Canada
Posts: 78
Status:  Offline
 Wed Apr 16th, 2008 03:58 am
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Does anyone have any recommended tips for flattening panels. If paint is stable, Can wet towels and heat be used? If the paint is stable can the panel be soaked for a considerable amount of time to soften the putty/cement to flatten it and then after it is flattened, re putty? If just dry heat and weight is used, How much weight? Thanks in advance for all replies.

Adam

Roberto
AGG member


Joined: Tue Sep 12th, 2006
Location: Needham, Massachusetts USA
Posts: 60
Status:  Offline
 Posted: Thu Apr 17th, 2008 12:59 am
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Adam,
The first thing I do in these situations is closely inspect the panel and ask why did it deflect? Then I come up with a solution to correct the problem.
If you are absolutely certain that the paint is stable, then I would say yes you can soak the panel in warm water to facilitate the removal of the putty. Although, I rarely soak them. If the old putty is really hard, you can use a steamer to soften it. It is crucial though that you do remove the old putty on both sides of the panel, or you will cause glass to crack. Once the old putty is removed, I use heat from a lamp positioned at a distance with the addition of weights. I use about 2lbs. placed on the center of the bulge. I use my judgement as far as using more or less weight, but I normally don't go over 2-1/2 lbs. You want the deflection to flatten slowly and gently.
After the panel has flattened and you re-putty the window, you must now add some sort of support system in the once deflected areas, otherwise you are not correcting the problem, and the deflection will reaccur. I like to add brass fins to the exterior as they are virtually invisible from the interior.
Just my thoughts and procedures.

Good luck.
Roberto

Vic
Director


Joined: Thu Sep 14th, 2006
Location: Bronxville, New York USA
Posts: 247
Status:  Offline
 Thu Apr 17th, 2008 02:13 am
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I do as Roborto. I never soak anymore, just steam clean. I use 1 - 5 pound barbell weights. I also rig up 500 watt halogen lights across the panel , about 4-5 feet above the panel. I looks like an oversized food warming area in a fast food restaurant

Vic

Kal Tiki
Non AGG Members
 

Joined: Wed Aug 8th, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 7
Status:  Offline
 Posted: Thu Apr 17th, 2008 02:31 pm
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Hi Adam, Roberto, Vic et al,  I agree that the removal of the putty helps to soften the window to help with flattening. Sometimes with severe buckling that borders on needing relelading the whole window can distort as the window is flattened. The distortion can most be seen if you have borders that have remained straight because they were restrained by the wood frame yet the center portion is distorted. Because the lead has stretched so much it can be difficult to push the center flat without then distorting the perimeter border, even if you put wood stops around the window. The extra lead of stretching need somewhere to go as you push it flat.

 In those instances we restrain the perimeter of the window and cut many of the joints on both sides with lead dykes. Typically two cuts on each joint do the trick, cutting the joint first with the flat side of the dykes then turning it around and cutting with the beveled side. This will remove a tiny portion of the lead which then compensates for the lead being a little longer from stretching/buckling and it will flatten easily. In extreme cases every joint could be cut. In less extreme cases perhaps a few strategic joints can be cut. After flattening the joints resoldered and the window rewaterproofed. Good luck on your project Adam.  Dan Maher


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