| Posted: Fri Apr 8th, 2011 07:22 pm |
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1st Post |
Krueger
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The stained glass lamp I was asked to repair is a hanging lamp, with 2 rings (one rather solid and the other with vent holes and both with a 3-dimensional curve)...the lamp top began to sag and pull apart due to the temp of the bulb, but only one broken piece. I would like to apply a copper reinforcing wire in 3 places on the interior, but there is a black patina which is making it very difficlut, if not impossible for the solder to "stick". Can that patina be removed? which "ring" should be applied first, interior or exterior? Thanks.
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| Posted: Fri Apr 8th, 2011 07:39 pm |
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2nd Post |
Krueger
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I probably should have said "vase caps" instead of rings...
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| Posted: Fri Apr 8th, 2011 08:30 pm |
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3rd Post |
David Crane
AGG Member
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Barbara,
A picture or two would be a big help.
I can't begin to calculate how much time and gasoline digital cameras and the internet have saved me on estimate calls.
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| Posted: Fri Apr 8th, 2011 08:37 pm |
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4th Post |
Krueger
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David, it is a Tiffany style floral (perhaps dogwood) lamp,3-repeat, bottom diameter is 20 inches. Someone has suggested using steel wool to remove the patina.....I will go to the hardware store this evening.
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| Posted: Fri Apr 8th, 2011 08:45 pm |
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5th Post |
Rebecca
Administrator
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It sounds like one of the foreign made ones. I just repaired one that the solder took a very high temperature to melt, even when the patina was off. I have had others that needed higher temperature, too. I don't know what alloy they are using to solder the lamps, but it is hard to melt. And the caps always pull off.
Rebecca
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| Posted: Fri Apr 8th, 2011 08:48 pm |
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6th Post |
Krueger
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Oh yes, I am positive it is foreign made....and not only did the caps pull off, but 6 or 7 pieces of glass and of course some foil in hard to reach places.
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| Posted: Fri Apr 8th, 2011 09:00 pm |
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7th Post |
David Crane
AGG Member
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I'd still need a picture.
Scotch-Brite, would be a better choice than steel wool.
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| Posted: Fri Apr 8th, 2011 09:15 pm |
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8th Post |
| Posted: Fri Apr 8th, 2011 09:24 pm |
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9th Post |
Rebecca
Administrator
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Of course it's cheaper to buy a new one, but they will pay to repair them anyway. I don't ask why. I try to fix them so that they won't pull apart again.
Rebecca
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Rebecca
Administrator
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Krueger wrote: Oh yes, I am positive it is foreign made....and not only did the caps pull off, but 6 or 7 pieces of glass and of course some foil in hard to reach places.
You will find that the foil is very delicate and as you work on it, more will pull off. It isn't necessarily the heat that causes them to pull apart. Primarily it is because they are not well made. They are not meant to last.
Rebecca
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Mary Clerkin Higgins
AGG Member
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Hi Barbara, Steel wool won't clean it adequately. You need single-edged razor blades to scrape off all the patina, down to the shiny solder. Use lots of flux to clean it more as you heat it, and clean the tip of your iron repeatedly as you're moving away the solder. Best, Mary
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Rebecca
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The inside of the lamp won't have much solder over the foil and too much scraping will cut the delicate foil right off. I wouldn't scrape or use steel wool on one of these foreign-made lamps. It's better to use strong flux and lots of heat. As Mary says, keep cleaning your soldering iron tip.
Rebecca
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Steve
AGG Member
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Pictures please; and I am surprised, you know where my studio is, and I have never held back information. I will be in most of the day tomorrow, if I see pictures I can advise, without them it is difficult.
You might try cleaning the area you are working with a toothbrush and copius amounts of white vinegar with table salt disolved in it,dump the salt in until is will not dissolve any longer. you cannot put too much in. it will absorb as much as it needs, this creates a weak muriatic type acid which will help clean the surface and is compatible with most tinning type liquid fluxes, albeit weaker.
Do not use abrasives on lamp shades, foreign or not, you create more damage.
Careful with the flux as cleaner also, there are alot of tricks, much easier to show you than write them all down. If you decide to come in, bring the shade with you.
By the way, I have never seen a lamp sag because of the temperature of the bulb, I don't know of a household bulb that gets over 625 F in temperature. that might burn the house down!
Last edited on Sat Apr 9th, 2011 01:41 am by Steve
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mmezalick
AGG Member
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Instead of steel wool, which will leave strands of rust if you dod not get them all off, I would suggest bronze wool. Same effect but with out the rust leftovers.
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Krueger
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I don't know how to post pictures on here...so have sent some out to some individuals. Am reluctant to use steel wool for the reason cited.....but also, even with gloves, it is hard on your hands. Took today off and tomorrow will use a wet pad with some whiting...and a toothbrush....only want to do the solder lines where the wire reinforcement will go. And I intend to leave about a 1/3 inch at the top where I can solder it to the inner vase cap. The solder lines seem practically greasy, so perhaps some wax or something was used...
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Rebecca
Administrator
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Yep, the one I just finished had a greasy feel. The best thing to do is take strong flux and a hot iron and a little solder and go down the seams where you want to attach the wire. Trying to take the coating off is a losing battle - especially on the inside where there is very little solder.
Rebecca
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Rebecca
Administrator
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To post a picture, when you are in the reply screen, look to the bottom where it says "Attachment:" See the button to the right that says "Browse..."? Click on it and find the picture on your computer. Double-click on the filename of the picture and the path and name will be in the white box. Save the reply. That's all you have to do.
Rebecca
Attachment: Barbara's Repair.docx (Downloaded 108 times)
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| Posted: Sun Apr 10th, 2011 12:00 am |
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18th Post |
Krueger
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OK thanks Rebecca....I will try and remember how to post a photo.
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